When making the shoulder cut on the table saw, it’s easiest to use the rip fence to define the 1'- tenon length. By cutting the shoulder last, any “notching” will happen against the tenon cheek. I cut the cheeks first, then define the shoulders, so there isn’t a chance of the shoulders being accidentally notched by the saw blade during the cheek cut. With the mortises complete, head for the table saw and get ready to cut tenons. Now change the bit (either mortise or router bit) to a ¼' bit and mark and cut the ¼' x 5-3/8' x ½'-deep mortises for the panels in the aprons and stretchers. I used a bench top mortiser for this step, but you could also use a plunge router with an up-spiral bit to cut them. These mortises are cantered on the width of the legs and located as shown in the diagram. Then cut 3/8' x 2-5/8' x 1'-deep mortises in the legs for the stretchers, and 3/8' x 1-1/8' x 1'-deep mortises for the aprons. After cutting the legs to size, mark the best faces for showing off the grain. If the stretchers and legs are also well-figured, so much the better. Choose the best figure for the top and the panel pieces. As with all white oak Arts & Crafts pieces, wood figure is important to make a simple design stand out. Stickley catalogue of 1914, the original of this table now sells for $1,600 at auction. Patterned after the model #562 taboret shown in the L.&J.G.

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